2010 | Domaine Jules Desjourneys | Fleurie Les Moriers

Deeply concentrated plum and cherry fruit are allied to iodine-tinged saline, sweet shrimp shell reduction intimated already in the nose and serving for saliva gland-milking in an amazingly thrusting, gripping finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: While the corresponding La Chapelle des Bois appeared from cask to have had an edge on Duperray’s 2010 Fleurie Les Moriers Tres Vieilles Vignes, from bottle this dramatically different wine – which he describes as “the nose of Fleurie with the palate of Moulin-a-Vent” – is no less impressive than its immediate sibling. Deeply concentrated plum and cherry fruit are allied to iodine-tinged saline, sweet shrimp shell reduction intimated already in the nose and serving for saliva gland-milking in an amazingly thrusting, gripping finish. White pepper and musky rose radish tweak the nostrils and re-emerge as an invigorating adjunct that encourages me to imagine that a profoundly intense Gruner Veltliner Smaragd had been blended-in. Nutmeg and toasted pecan complement the intense ripeness of fruit, which however never turns superficially sweet thanks in large part to its sheer freshness and to the aforementioned biting invigoration.

• Vinum Wine Magazine: Dark clear cherry red. Smoky fruit, brilliant and fresh, reminiscent of dark, ripe berries. Concentrated and quite distinctive on the palate, powerful but balanced and elegant in the fruit, with a firm structure and a bit (too?) biting tannin. Floral notes in the aftertaste. Still a year too young to enjoy, but compared to the striking Chapelle des bois, it is a more charming, feminine, delicate wine.

Producer Information

Domaine Jules Desjourneys is a wine estate in Southern Burgundy. It makes wines from appellations in the Mâconnais and Beaujolais regions. Owner-winemaker Fabien Duperray was already a well-known Burgundy negociant representing some of the best known estates. In 2007 he purchased some old Gamay vineyards in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent. He added some select Mâconnais Chardonnay parcels in 2014, which are shared with Christophe Thibert. There are now 7 hectares (17 acres) in Beaujolais and 10ha (25 acres) in the Mâconnais. In addition to a pair of Fleurie wines and a Moulin-à-Vent, the portfolio includes a number of Pouilly-Fuissé bottlings, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Mâcon Prissé and Mâcon Verzé. The name of the operation pays tribute to the Beaujolais native, scientist and winemaker Jules Chauvet. He is often credited with spearheading the natural wine movement. Farming is biodynamic and all operations are carried out by hand. Yields are kept very low.

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