2011 | Exton Park | Malcolm Isaac Blanc de Blancs

Golden colour, smoke, molten candlewax, salted caramel and oyster shell. Air brings a notion of crushed yarrow and savouriness as well as honey.

Reviews:

• Vinous: Golden colour, smoke, molten candlewax, salted caramel and oyster shell. Air brings a notion of crushed yarrow and savouriness as well as honey. Even more air brings an overtone of mint oil. The palate holds these flavours with and edge of white pepper, showing wonderful depth and a chalky, profound, crisp saltiness. The finish is rich with umami, carried by very fine, lovely, bright mousse that makes this incredibly smooth, long and savoury.

Producer Information

English chalk streams have been used to grow watercress on a commercial scale for over two hundred years. Malcolm Isaacs began growing this crop iusing the chalk streams on his Hampshire land in 1951. He gradually expanded the business through acquisitions, including the farm once owned by Eliza James, The Queen of Watercress. Along with this acquisition he also obtained rights to using James' company name, Vitacress. By the time Hampshire-based Vitacress was sold to Portuguese interests in 2008 for around £50 million, the company was supplying pre-packaged watercress and salads to supermarkets throughout the UK. With an 87% stake in the Vitacress business, the sale gave Mr Isaacs a considerable fortune. In 2001 another Hampshire businessman, Mark Gardner and his wife, bought the 95 ha Exton Farm, situated in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and which in 2009 became part of the South Downs National Park. They recognised that with its chalky soils there was potential for growing the classic Champagne grape cultivars and they began by planting 4 ha of vines in 2004. An additional hectare of Bacchus was planted in 2005 followed by 5 ha of Pinot Noir in 2008. The following year the entire 95 ha estate was put up for sale with a guide price of £3.8 million and was subsequently purchased by Malcolm Isaac.

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