2017 | Domaine Dujac | Les Gruenchers

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers 1er Cru has quite a savory bouquet, touches of dried blood infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. This is nicely balanced, though quite sturdy at the moment, with a backward, surly finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers has aromas of pomegranate and raspberries, which mingle with notions of rose petals, raw cocoa and grilled game bird, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and open-knit palate that's succulent and supple, underpinned by tangy acids and concluding with a fragrant finish. Dujac's vines in this parcel are over 80 years old, but they delivered a record yield this year.

• John Gilman: I was very happy to see the Gruenchers back in the lineup in 2017, after the severe frost damage here in 2016, but sorry to see it so grumpy after its racking! The bouquet is still rather recalcitrant post-racking, but eventually delivers a mélange of red berries, red plums, raw cocoa, chalky soil, mustard seed and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine’s purity is certainly apparent, despite its unsettled nature, with its full-bodied and nicely tangy format offering up good depth at the core and fine-grained tannins on the long finish. I am sure this is going to be very good indeed, but it just wanted to be left alone on the day of my visit.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Jeremy Seysses gradually took over from his father Jacques after he started working at the domaine in 1998. He has since been joined by wife Diana and brother Alec. Since the 1960s, Dujac has made a few small changes to its winemaking style. Less new oak is used for the younger wines, and the winery is now air conditioned to allow for later malolactic fermentation. Traditionally, whole bunch pressing was used, but now the grapes undergo a small amount of destemming if ripeness levels are not high enough. Other than this, the wines have been made in the same way for half a century and are never filtered and very rarely fined.

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