2009 | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe | Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

Youthful, medium bodied, fresh, dominated by its cherry and garrigue nose, the wine is well made, but it lacks that extra special something that really carries through.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seaweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, full-bodied mouthfeel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully. The 2009 can be consumed now or cellared for two decades.

• Wine Spectator: This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted apple wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully.

Producer Information

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a producer in the southern Rhône region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Owned by the Brunier family for more than 100 years, Vieux Télégraphe is one of the best-known producers in the region. The Brunier family also produces Gigondas-designated wine under the Les Pallieres label, IGP from Vaucluse, AOC Ventoux and wine under the label Massaya from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Another Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was released by the family under the label La Roquette until 2011, when it was replaced with Piedlong.The domaine was established by Hippolyte Brunier and produced its first wine in 1900. It has grown to become one of the largest land owners in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with almost 100 hectares (240 acres). The majority of its vineyards are dedicated to red varieties, with Grenache being the most important grape in the region, though small sections of white wine are used in the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. The best fruit comes from the La Crau plateau, which sits elevated above many of the region's other vineyards, and is known for its galets, or pudding stones, that account for 70 percent of the soil composition and can reach depths of up to five meters (16ft). The eponymous Vieux Télégraphe is the flagship wine and is made with grapes from the La Crau vineyard, which has the oldest vines. The estate also makes a Télégraphe Blanc, as well as the second wine, Télégramme, made in both red (rouge) and white (blanc) styles. The Télégramme Rouge has a higher percentage of Grenache in its blend and fruit comes from the domaine's younger vines, but these are still decades old. The production of the Télégramme is more than 16,000 cases annually, giving it some of the largest production figures for a Châteauneuf-designated wine. The Télégramme Blanc is made in very small numbers and produced mostly for export to the United States.

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