2014 | Giacomo Conterno | Barolo Riserva Monfortino

Warm aromas of plums, rose petals and spices with hints of sandalwood. Some tar. Full body, dense center palate with glorious fruit and a fantastic finish. Very, very polished and fine tannins. Vertical and deep.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Tasted from barrel, with about one year to go before it will be bottled, the 2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is shaping up to be a true icon. From an analytical point of view, this vintage records slightly higher tannins (compared to 2013), and this is something winemaker Roberto Conterno looks to with attention, especially because his entire philosophy and methodology prizes longevity. What I find most interesting here is the sheer density and plumpness of the fruit that defies our expectations of this cooler vintage. That dark fruit richness is perfectly measured to the wine's structural backbone. That relationship between fruit and tannin is ultimately what gives this wine such a precise sense of balance. I will be able to give a final score to this wine in one year's time.

• Vinous: When it comes to comparisons of any kind, all bets are off with the 2014 Monfortino, a Barolo that enters the stratosphere of profound and utterly moving beauty. Seamless and elegant in the glass, with stunning aromatics and perfectly ripe tannins, the 2014 is simply breathtaking in its beauty. In 2014, Roberto Conterno waited to harvest this fruit very late. The result is a Barolo that offers the textural opulence of fruit picked at the end of the season with the aromatic depth and structure of a wine from a cool year. Most incredibly of all, the 2014 is a very tannic wine analytically, and yet the sensation is of a Barolo of softness and opulence. A rush of dark red/purplish berry fruit, blood orange, spice, tobacco and mint builds into the rapturous finish. Readers who can find the 2014 when it is released next year should not hesitate, as it will unquestionably go down as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made.

Producer Information

Giacomo Conterno is a widely acclaimed Barolo producer based just outside Monforte d'Alba in the south of the Barolo DOCG zone in Piedmont, northwestern Italy. It is best known for its Cascina Francia and the Monfortino Riserva Barolo labels, both of which are long-lived and earthy. In 1908, Giovanni Conterno opened a small tavern in the village of San Giuseppe, making Barolo to supply the business. The first Riserva was bottled around the time of World War I, and was one of the first examples of producer-bottled Barolo at a time when most were sold in bulk for early consumption. Giovanni's son Giacomo took over when his father died in 1934, and ran the estate until his death in 1961. His sons, Giovanni and Aldo, worked together until the latter left in 1969 over stylistic differences, forming his own estate. Roberto Conterno, grandson of Giacomo, took charge in 2003. It was in 1974 that Conterno acquired the acclaimed 16-hectare (40-acre) Cascina Francia site in Serralunga d'Alba. This was a promising southwest-facing site on chalky soil, but at the time was a wheat field. Nebbiolo vines were planted and the vineyard's first vintage was in 1978, after which the reputation of the estate began to soar. In 2009, Conterno purchased the three hectare (7.5 acre) Ceretta plot, which is used to make the Langhe Nebbiolo. Then in 2015 the estate bought the nine hectare (22 acre) Arione vineyard to the south of Serralunga d'Alba. The Monfortino Riserva Barolo is only made in excellent vintages and is aged for at least seven years in very large Slovenian oak casks known as "botti". Conterno uses this traditional method to make its wines to avoid excessive vanillin sweetness. The Cascina Francia site makes both a single-vineyard Barolo and a Barbera d'Alba. The Langhe Nebbiolo is the estate's entry-level offering. Assuming a satisfactory vintage, production levels for the Barbera and Cascina Francia Barolo are around 20,000 bottles each a year. In exceptional years, around 7000 bottles of Riserva may be produced.

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