2014 | Mommessin | Clos de Tart

Moderately saturated medium red. Bright scents of dark cherry, flowers and spices enlivened by pepper and herb nuances; not a particularly underbrushy style. Wonderfully silky and perfumed on the palate, with flavors of raspberry, spices and flowers conveying a slightly exotic character.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2014 Clos de Tart Grand Cru will contain 40% whole bunch fruit in the final. It was picked from September 17 until September 22. This blend that I tasted included the young vines at the bottom of the vineyard that may or may not be deselected to make a Forge de Tart (the decision will be made next year). It is also the first vintage that does not include old vines at the northwest corner that were pulled up in spring 2014, due to be replanted in four years' time. It has a very well defined bouquet with cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, fine mineral tones and is quite harmonious with hints of wet limestone. The palate is medium-bodied and I feel this has tightened up since I tasted it in September 2015. The fruit also seems a little darker. Blackberry and wild cherry, with a hint of cola and certainly more tangible mineralité on the finish, as you can feel the mouth tingling long after it has bid adieu. Readers will be aware that I tasted the 2014 back in September at retiring winemaker Sylvain Pitiot's retirement do. Nevertheless I thought it would be appropriate to return a couple of months later to taste with new winemaker, Jacques Devauges. It also gave me a chance to walk down through the vineyard from Laurent Ponsot's winery and get a feel for the terroir - bracing it was too as I tramped through the vines to quizzical stares of those doing the first pruning of the vines.

• Decanter: Vibrant, ripe blackberry plus delicate notes of rose, a gorgeously silky texture and sweet-spice finish. I tasted the seven parcels that make up this final wine and it is clear that there's a sensational synergy in the blending.

Producer Information

Clos de Tart is a highly esteemed domaine based on a single grand cru monopole vineyard in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis, in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy's Côte d'Or. The estate produces two wines, both from Pinot Noir. Clos de Tart's history dates back to a 12th Century abbey constructed by Cistercian nuns of the Notre Dame de Tart order. The vineyard has remained a monopole ever since. In 2017 the domaine was bought by French billionaire François Pinault for a figure thought to be in excess of €225 million ($260 million). Pinault's investment group, Artemis, owns a host of high-profile domaines across France, including Château Grillet in Château Grillet (Condrieu) and Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux, as well as Araujo Estate in California's Napa Valley. The property was previously owned by the Mommessin family, who purchased the estate in 1932. The family sold its négociant business (and name) to Jean-Claude Boisset, of the major Burgundy wine family, although the Mommessin family retained Clos de Tart until its sale to Pinault. The Mommessin brand has relocated to Beaujolais under the Boisset portfolio, while the wines of Clos de Tart ceased to carry the Mommessin name on the label for a period until the takeover in 2017. The vineyard covers 7.5 hectares (18.5 acres) and earned its grand cru status in 1939. Clos de Tart has a southeast exposure and is divided into six blocks with slight differences in soil composition and aspect.

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