2023 | Maison Glandien | La Cruci Blanc

The 2023 Maison Glandien La Cruci Blanc is a vibrant, minimal-intervention Chardonnay from winemaker Tino Kuban, offering a rich yet energetic profile with notes of flint, citrus, and orchard fruits.

Producer Information

Maison Glandien is an ultra-cult, highly sought-after micro-négoce project based in Meursault, Burgundy, founded in 2018 by the Berlin-born artisan winemaker Tino Kuban. Kuban, a prominent outsider in the traditionally rigid Côte d'Or ranks, built a formidable global pedigree working with natural wine heavyweights across New Zealand, South Africa, and France (including stints with icons like Pierre Overnoy and Philippe Bornard) before acquiring the legendary Bernard van Berg estate in Meursault, which he now operates as his primary domain, Les Jardins Vivants. Through Maison Glandien, Kuban acts as a highly meticulous micro-négociant, sourcing organic and biodynamic whole grape clusters from tiny, overlooked parcels spanning the Côte Chalonnaise, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Jura, Alsace, and Beaujolais. Operating the venture much like an artisanal workshop rather than a commercial winery, he enforces an uncompromising, non-interventionist philosophy where yields are restricted to negligible levels—frequently under 10 hectoliters per hectare. In the cellar, everything is handled gently via gravity without the use of mechanical pumps; Chardonnays and Aligotés undergo a foot-tread and gentle vertical pressing with minimal settling, while reds like Pinot Noir and ancient-vine Gamay undergo long whole-bunch macerations. The wines ferment spontaneously with indigenous wild yeasts and undergo aging sur lie in premium Stockinger oak casks without racking or added sulfites, receiving only a minute dose of sulfur at bottling without any fining or filtration. Because his progressive, low-intervention techniques and far-reaching fruit sources violate rigid local appellation laws, Kuban intentionally bypasses regular restrictions to market the entire, heavily allocated portfolio as Vin de France. This results in intensely pure, structurally precise, and electrifyingly tense wines—including acclaimed cuvées like La Cruci, L’Ouverture, and the rare L'Origine estate-blended label—that have captured an immense, global cult following among collectors and elite sommeliers

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