1988 | Domaine Marquis d'Angerville | Volnay 1 Cru Clos des Ducs

The palate is medium-bodied and very well balanced, firm tannins, perhaps a little foursquare but very good length and persistency. Very mushroom-y towards the finish and fades in the glass.

Reviews:

• John Gilman: Speaking of atypical Clos des Ducs, the 1988 seems about as far removed from a classic Ducster as I have ever tasted. Stylistically, it reminds me more of a successful 1983, rather than a 1988. And yet, despite its idiosyncratic nature, this is a wine of admirable depth, complexity and (even) style. The bouquet offers up some scents recognizable as Clos des Ducs: cherry fruit, coffee, herb tones and sous bois, as well as some very uncharacteristic notes of cassis and cigar ash. Reportedly the d’Angervilles experimented with a much higher degree of toast on their barrels in 1988, which seems to have permanently marred the wine with this 'ashen' quality. On the palate the wine is deep, admirably concentrated and very well-balanced, with fine delineation, and excellent grip and tang on the long finish. The 1988 is still a few years away from primetime drinking, but it is resolving beautifully, and should prove to be a very fine dinner companion for fifteen or twenty years. Given its very odd (for Clos des Ducs) stylistic shape, I suspect that there will be plenty of fans of the Duke that will not enjoy this vintage, and yet, it is difficult to deny this wine’s very serious attributes. I would opt for reaching for the 1988 to accompany dishes that would normally call for a bottle of claret, as their flavor and aromatic profiles are not wholly dissimilar.

Producer Information

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville is a Burgundy producer focusing on Pinot Noir from highly regarded vineyards in the Côte du Beaune. The domaine gained fame in the 1920s when it began to make and bottle its own wine, at a time when the common practice was for élevage and bottling to take place in the hands of négociants. Marquis d'Angerville circumvented the négociants entirely by commercializing its own wine, becoming one of the leading producers to do so. The domaine has eight premier cru vineyards in Volnay, as well as one each in Meursault and Pommard. All of its top sites are planted to Pinot Noir, with the exception of the premier cru Meursault Santenots vineyard, which is planted to Chardonnay. This vineyard is unique in that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are both permitted to be planted, but the Pinot Noir carries a Volnay Santenots designation, while the Meursault is reserved for white wine. The Marquis d'Angerville holdings here come from the Plures section of the vineyard. Domaine Marquis d'Angerville's vineyard holdings total less than 15 hectares (37 acres), which includes the prized monopole Clos Des Ducs. The domaine rounds out its premier cru and village wines with a Bourgogne Blanc, Rouge and Aligoté. In 2012 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville expanded into Jura with the purchase of vineyards and the establishment of Domaine du Pélican. The Angerville family is leasing the majority of the vineyards of famed vin jaune producer Jacques Puffeney. The estate also boasts a particular, small-berried clone of Pinot Noir, known as Pinot d'Angerville, that has been propagated by the regional wine trade body, the BIVB. Since the death of Jacques D’Angerville in 2003, the running of the estate is currently overseen by his son Guillaume. As of 2009, the estate vineyards have been cultivated biodynamically.

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