2005 | Domaine de Montille | Les Malconsorts

Good deep red. Deeply pitched, somewhat reduced nose hints at darker fruits. Then rounder, larger and deeper on the palate than the "regular" Malconsorts. distinctly spherical in shape, an impression that leavens the sheer size of this wine. Complicating notes of earth and vegetable matter. Finish very long and full, with great finesse of tannins.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Vinified to mirror the regular cuvee and named for de Montille’s mother is a separate 2005 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts “Christianne” from a half-hectare plot (easy to spot on any detailed vineyard map) that jumps the road and juts into the original La Tache. The result is a totally different wine – and what a wine it is! Subtle brown spices, jasmine, orange rind mingle with moss, mineral nuance, and black fruits. Raw red meat and savory soy notes emerge on the palate. This displays singular textural refinement and elegance, purity and clarity of fruit, and an ineffable complexity of mineral nuances from stem to stern. The billowing richness of folds of black fruits set up a harmonious, almost Riesling-like call and response with minerals. Explore the extraordinary mysteries of this wine beginning in 5-7 years, though one could well imagine it being worth holding for more than twice that time.

• Burghound: This is just a flat out sexy and seductive wine with a wonderful panoply of spice nuances, including clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, sandalwood and hoisin that continues onto the rich, velvety and mouth coating medium full flavors that drench the palate in sap and possess a beguiling mouth feel. Like the "regular" Malconsorts, this appears less structured than it really is at present because of the ample sève and impeccable balance. In sum, this clearly justifies having made a separate cuvée and should make for a wonderful 25+ year wine.

Producer Information

Domaine de Montille is a Burgundy producer known for its Pinot Noir from highly regarded vineyards in Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. The family has an extensive history in Burgundy, and the estate has carried the de Montille name since 1863. During much of its history it sold grapes to négociants - common practice for vineyard owners in the early 20th Century. The domaine also sold off whole parcels of land, significantly reducing its original holdings. Hubert de Montille inherited the remaining 2.5 hectares (6 acres) in Volnay and vinified his first vintage in 1947. In the following decades, he turned the domaine into one of the top red Burgundy producers, gradually accumulating parcels of land in various communes along the Côte d'Or. By 2011, the estate had grown to 20 hectares (50 acres) with 75 percent of its land in Premier or Grand Cru vineyards. This was more or less doubled by the purchase of Château de Puligny-Montrachet the following year (see below). Its most sought-after wines come from plots in Corton, Pommard, Vosne Romanée Aux Malconsorts and has grown to include plots of Chardonnay in Puligny-Montrachet's premier cru Le Cailleret vineyard as well. In the 1980s Hubert's son, Étienne, began working at the domaine, followed by his daughter, Alix. In the mid 1990s, Domaine de Montille began using organic farming practices. It took a turn towards Biodynamics in 2005 and was certified Organic in 2012. The winery only uses indigenous yeast and generally avoids chaptalization, resulting in wines that are rarely higher than 12 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). The use of new oak is also strictly controlled. The family also owns the negociant label Maison de Montille. This offers wines from non-estate grown fruit.

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