2004 | Tenuta Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino

Has blackberry and coffee bean, with a hint of cream on the nose. Full-bodied and tight, with slightly austere and chewy tannins, but there is pretty, ripe fruit underneath it all.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: This remains one of my favorite vintages in Montalcino, and it was indeed an important breakout year for the appellation in general. By the time this wine was released, one-fourth of all Brunello di Montalcino was being sold in the United States alone. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a very firm and tightly knit expression. Those dark fruit tones of blackberry preserves and dried cherry are woven directly into a thicker patchwork of spice, leather and cured tobacco. Fruit comes from old vines at the Il Poggione estate. This was the first wine produced in the estate's new winery and a great percentage of new oak was used as a result. Now more than ten years after the harvest, those oak aromas have slowly morphed into perfumed rose and potpourri-like characteristics.

• Vinous: Although still an infant, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino has aged beautifully. Rose petal, bright red stone fruits and mint are some of the nuances that give the 2004 its lively, expressive personality. Silky tannins add considerable appeal today, but the 2004 also has more than enough depth to drink well for many years to come.

Producer Information

Tenuta Il Poggione is an estate in the Montalcino DOCG appellation of Tuscany, particularly known for its rich, dense Brunello wines balancing ripe fruit, savoury elements and a classic structure. These are considered to be some of the greatest wines produced in Italy. The estate covers 530 hectares (13000 acres), with 140ha (336 acres) planted to vines and 50ha (124 acres) to olive trees. The remainder is dedicated to cereals, livestock and forestry. A new winery was built in 2004, but winemaking is a mix of modernity and tradition with a focus on larger French oak barrels aged in underground cellars. The younger Brunello vines – less than 20 years old – provide the fruit for the Rosso di Montalcino. This is aged for 12 months in barriques and large oak oaks. The standard Brunello is aged for three years in large French oak barrels. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is only produced in the best years from the oldest vineyard on the estate, planted in 1964. It is aged in the same way as the "normale" but for (at least) an extra year. Cuttings from the Paganelli vines are used for any new plantings. Il Poggione makes a range of wines outside of the Brunello DOCG as well. These include a Sangiovese-Merlot-Cabernet blend under the IGT Toscana designation, and a Vin Santo from Sant'Antimo. A white Toscana IGT combines Vermentino and Chardonnay, while the rosé is made entirely from Sangiovese. There is also a Moscadello di Montalcino and a sparkling wine. The estate was founded in the late 19th Century by Lavinio Franceschi, a landowner on the hills above Florence, who bought land and began planting Sangiovese vineyards and introducing modern farming methods. Il Poggione remains in the same family. Today it is owned by Lavinio's descendents, Leopoldo and Livia.

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