2005 | Domaine Marquis d'Angerville | Volnay 1 Cru Champans (Magnum)

The bouquet offers up notes of cherries, red berries, coffee, lovely minerality and a touch of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and intensely flavored, with again simply striking purity, excellent focus and balance, and a long, moderately tannic and tangy finish.

Reviews:

• Stephen Tanzer: Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines structure and charm: I wouldn't be surprised if this merited an even higher score eight or ten years from now.

• Burghound: Remarkably this has changed relatively little since my initial in-bottle review almost 10 years ago as the ripe raspberry liqueur-like nose evidences hints of spice, violets, earth and underbrush. The vibrant, pure, round and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors possess excellent intensity on the precise, powerful and mineral-driven finish. There is a beautiful tension to this wine and while there is a serious tannic backbone, this seems supple on the mid-palate because the structure is so well-buffered. This is still very much on the way up and should easily see its 50th birthday (and many more) in superb condition. As such I would strongly advise letting this beauty continue to slumber.

Producer Information

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville is a Burgundy producer focusing on Pinot Noir from highly regarded vineyards in the Côte du Beaune. The domaine gained fame in the 1920s when it began to make and bottle its own wine, at a time when the common practice was for élevage and bottling to take place in the hands of négociants. Marquis d'Angerville circumvented the négociants entirely by commercializing its own wine, becoming one of the leading producers to do so. The domaine has eight premier cru vineyards in Volnay, as well as one each in Meursault and Pommard. All of its top sites are planted to Pinot Noir, with the exception of the premier cru Meursault Santenots vineyard, which is planted to Chardonnay. This vineyard is unique in that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are both permitted to be planted, but the Pinot Noir carries a Volnay Santenots designation, while the Meursault is reserved for white wine. The Marquis d'Angerville holdings here come from the Plures section of the vineyard. Domaine Marquis d'Angerville's vineyard holdings total less than 15 hectares (37 acres), which includes the prized monopole Clos Des Ducs. The domaine rounds out its premier cru and village wines with a Bourgogne Blanc, Rouge and Aligoté. In 2012 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville expanded into Jura with the purchase of vineyards and the establishment of Domaine du Pélican. The Angerville family is leasing the majority of the vineyards of famed vin jaune producer Jacques Puffeney. The estate also boasts a particular, small-berried clone of Pinot Noir, known as Pinot d'Angerville, that has been propagated by the regional wine trade body, the BIVB. Since the death of Jacques D’Angerville in 2003, the running of the estate is currently overseen by his son Guillaume. As of 2009, the estate vineyards have been cultivated biodynamically.

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