2009 | Domaine du Pegau | Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee

Dark ruby. Wild, highly aromatic bouquet of dark berry liqueur, cherry pit, smoked meat and garrigue. Deeply pitched black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are broad and sappy, with a smoky floral quality appearing on the back. The long finish features gentle tannic grip and lingering smokiness.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée is a terrific effort still in its prime. Marked by scents of sweaty horse tack, it's also loaded with sweet black cherries, hints of smoke and dried herbs. Full-bodied and velvety, it finishes long and rich, with the suggestion of warm generosity. I suspect not everyone will love this wine, but for me, it beautifully captures the character of great, traditional Southern Rhônes. As we started the tasting with the white wines, Laurence Féraud pointed out that those yields were affected by mildew in 2018—not just the Grenache. Her white wine production in Châteauneuf du Pape was roughly half of normal. She also said that there will be no Cuvée da Capo in either 2017 or 2018. "In 2018, there's weakness in the mid-palate. Bigger berries, thinner skins." In compensation, consumers can look forward to a delicious, early-drinking Cuvée Réservée from 2018, and a dense, long-lived version in 2017. One highlight of this year's visit was a chance to try the 2009 and 1989 Cuvée Réservées, both of which are reassuringly excellent and still drinking well. I'll have reviews of the rest of the Feraud wines—her various Côtes du Rhône offerings—in Part 2 of the Southern Rhône report.

• James Suckling: Dark and dense, with stunning espresso, warm ganache and roasted plum aromas giving way to layers of black currant, braised fig and licorice root. The long, grip-filled finish is framed by a strong roasted mesquite edge and a lingering note of brick dust. A wild wine, with loads going on. Just needs cellaring to round into form.

Producer Information

Domaine du Pegau is a well-known and respected wine producer based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is known for its traditional-styled wines from that appellation, based on the Grenache grape variety. The estate had its beginnings under Elvira and Leon Feraud in the mid-1900s. However, the land the estate sits on has been cultivated with vines, olives and fruits since the 1600s. The domaine in its modern form was created by Paul Feraud, the son of Elvira and Leon, in 1987. He had previously produced and sold a small amount of wine each year to negociants around France. His daughter Laurence, back from her winemaking and wine business studies, convinced him to create an independently owned family domaine. Within a few years it was regarded as one of the best in the appellation. The winery was built in 1989 and today the majority of the wines are produced there. Domaine du Pegau now owns 21 hectares (52 acres) of red Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines and two hectares of white.

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