2017 | Armand Rousseau | Chambertin Clos de Beze

The 2017 Clos de Bèze from Domaine Rousseau is an equally compelling wine in the making, but it is a bit the inverse right now of the Chambertin, as it is a bit more reserved on its youthful nose, but more open and flamboyant on the palate. The bouquet is very, very pure, precise and promising, offering up scents of red and black raspberries, cherries, raw cocoa, a very complex base of minerality, lovely spice tones and a very well-done framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and sappy at the core, with superb transparency and grip, ripe, seamless tannins and a very long, very energetic and vibrant finish. The wine is already suave and caressing on the attack, with all of this sappy reserve at the core and yet, it finishes completely defined by its complex minerality. A great wine.

Reviews:

• Burghound: While the wood treatment is certainly evident it remains reasonably subtle on the overtly cool and restrained nose that is markedly spicy with its broad-ranging combination of exuberantly fresh aromas of dark cherry, raspberry, rose petal, violet, plum and a suggestion of earth. There is excellent power and punch to the large-scaled flavors that are a combination of power and refinement while being blessed with an abundance of sappy dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mouthcoating, hugely long and firmly structured and chiseled finish. While the Chambertin appears to have a slight edge at this very early juncture due to having slightly better complexity, it's going to be interesting in 20 to 25 years' time to see which is the better wine!

• Vinous: The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the last wine to be poured as Cyrielle Rousseau mentions how it takes longer to fully absorb the oak. It has a much more introverted bouquet compared to the Chambertin this year and demands much more coaxing. Eventually it reveals brambly dark fruit, Earl Grey and a hint of chestnut. The palate is showing the wood at the moment (as Cyrielle Rousseau had predicted) although there is immense substance here with an almost candied, savoury finish that is going to be intriguing once bottled. It is very persistent...but will it exude the nobility of the Chambertin?

Producer Information

Domaine Armand Rousseau is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, in the northern Côte de Nuits. Arguably iconic in status, Armand Rousseau is one of Burgundy's oldest and most revered family-run domains. It holds many grand cru plots in Gevrey-Chambertin as well as part of the much sought-after premier cru vineyard Clos Saint-Jacques.Founded at the start of the 20th Century by Gevrey native Armand Rousseau, the domaine initially owned small plots of vines throughout Gevrey-Chambertin. Over the next 100 years under both Armand Rousseau and his son Charles, who took over after the death of his father in 1959, the Domaine acquired various grand cru vineyards in Charmes-, Mazis- (labeled "Mazy" by the domaine) and Mazoyères-Chambertin, culminating in a plot in Le Chambertin itself in 1994.Today, the winery and vineyard are run by Charles' son Eric and Eric's daughter Cyrielle Rousseau.

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