2017 | Domaine Dujac | Bonnes Mares

Dujac's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is full-bodied, deep and incisive, its tight-knit core structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Unwinding in the glass with notes of cassis, wild plums and red berries that are complemented by nuances of peonies, heather and dark chocolate, Dujac's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is full-bodied, deep and incisive, its tight-knit core structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids. Firm and introverted, as is so often the case, it has superb potential and will reward the patient, but readers considering purchasing this serious Bonnes-Mares should count on exercising over a decade's patience before opening bottles.

• Vinous: The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is quite closed and broody on the nose, or at least it was on the day of my visit to the _ domaine_. Dark red fruit, cranberry and raspberry aromas reveal scents of crushed stone and damp autumn leaves. The nicely structured, medium-bodied palate features tea leaf and bay leaf on the entry. Midway through, it delivers the precision and openness you expect from this vineyard, then goes on to demonstrate superb clarity on the aftertaste. This is a lighter style of Bonnes-Mares and yet it will still need time in bottle.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny.

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