2017 | Jean Grivot | Clos de Vougeot

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has quite a strict, minerally bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and light pressed iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with gently gripping tannin, touches of orange peel and marmalade infusing the red berry fruit.

Reviews:

• Decanter: Running from their gate by the Route Nationale to the same height as the Château de la Tour, the Grivots' vines are all in the lower half of the Clos. In hot years like 2017, humid soils can be an advantage, which appears to be the case for this stylish, poised, well-balanced grand cru bottling. The 30% oak is particularly subtle, framing the fresh, mineral-edged finish.

• Burghound: Here the less expressive nose flirts with reduction though a wisp of red berry fruit is discernible so I would suggest decanting this if you're game to try a bottle young. Otherwise the succulent and nicely rich flavors are blessed with abundant amounts of dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the moderately firm tannic spine on the youthfully austere and sneaky long finish.

Producer Information

Domaine Jean Grivot is an estate in the Côte d'Or of Burgundy known for its deep, aromatic Pinot Noir wines with bright red fruit characteristics. The domaine only makes wines from its own vineyards. Grivot owns around 15 hectares (37 acres) of land across Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges, including plots in Echézeaux, Richebourg and a sizeable 1.9-ha (4.6-acre) parcel in the legendary Clos de Vougeot vineyard. Everything is planted to Pinot Noir, except for a few rows of Chardonnay, which goes into the Bourgogne Blanc. All of Grivot's vineyards are planted to high densities to to encourage competition between the vines, which helps to lower yields. This is further lowered by the use of green harvests, which reduce crop size in favour of quality. The vines are all 40 years or older. In the winery, the bunches are 95 percent destalked and then undergo four to six days of cold maceration before fermentation in stainless steel. Grivot's wines are generally matured in oak barrels for 18 months with varying proportions of new oak: around 25 percent for village wines, up to 60 percent for premier cru and as much as 70 percent for grand crus. Wines are bottled without fining or filtration in accordance with lunar movements and atmospheric pressure. The Grivot family originated from the Jura region and were growing vines as early as the mid 17th Century. Just before the French Revolution, the family moved to Vosne-Romanée. The estate proper was developed in the early 1900s by Gaston Grivot, who sold his lesser plots to buy the Clos de Vougeot parcel in 1919. Domaine Jean Grivot became one of the first Burgundy domaines to bottle and sell its own wines.

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